🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.